| 4. Casting your own candles
a. Most of todays candles are made
from paraffin wax.
(1) Paraffin wax is sold in blocks in grocery
stores for sealing the tops of homemade preserves.
b. Coloring for the candles can be bought
at an arts and crafts store or if you are not going to make
a lot at one time, you can melt a colored crayon in the hot
paraffin.
c. Molds for your candles should have smooth
sides and should not break your heart if they have to be broken
or cut off your candle with tin snips.
d. Lengths of wick can be bought or you
can make your own by soaking cotton thread or string (not
nylon) in a boric solution (the crystals may be obtained at
your pharmacy) and then leaving it to dry.
e. When you are ready to make your candles,
knock a small hole in the bottom of your mold and run your
wick through it. Tie a knot in the wick at the outside bottom
of the mold and apply some patching plaster to the inside
of the mold to close the hole.
(1) Tie the other end of the wick to a
nail or stick which is long enough to rest across the sides
of the mold.
(a) Make sure the wick is taut so it is
not wasted.
f. To safely melt the paraffin, place cut
up lumps of it into the top of a cheap double boiler which
is sitting in a water bath and heat the water bath slowly
until the clumps of wax melt thoroughly.
(1) DO NOT place the wax
into a pan which is resting directly on the heat source.
(a) Wax is flammable and very hard to extinguish
if you start a fire in the pan with it.
(2) Once the paraffin is melted, add your
coloring.
(a) If you wish to scent your candle, this
is the time to add your essential oils.
(b) Herb oils and essences may be purchased
in most pharmacies, herb stores, arts and crafts stores or
occult supply stores.
(c) REMEMBER--the oils
should be used with restraint or else your candle will stink
like a cheap bar of soap.
g. The wax is poured into the mold a little
at a time, say one fourth, and then allowed to cool and form
a depression, then another fourth, and so on until the candle
is entirely formed.
(1) Once the candle is poured, place it
in a jug of cold water so that the candle may cool, but no
water may enter the mold.
(a) When thoroughly cold, tip out the candle, trim the wick,
and burnish the candles with a piece of cotton dipped in vegetable
oil.
5. It is customary not to blow out magic
candles.
a. Candle snuffers are preferred to the
use of wet fingertips or a plate smashed down on the wick.
(1) IT IS NOT A SAFE PRACTICE
to leave a candle burning unattended in a closed up house.
(a) Even the seemingly safest candle can
be knocked over by a stray animal or a gust of wind and start
a fire in your home.
B.
Preparation of Incense and Charcoal
1. Types of Incense
a. Oils
(1) Sprinkled on a fire or a glowing coal.
b. Powdered
(1) Warmed in tiny braziers
(a) Require a glowing coal to ignite
c. Small cones
(1) Also burned in a brazier
(a) Does not need to sit on a charcoal.
d. Joss Sticks
(1) Burned by placing sand in a bowl and
lodging the stick in the sand in an upright position.
e. Ribbons
(1) Made of inch-wide woven cotton ribbons.
(a) Burned in an ashtray.
f. Papers
(1) Specially treated papers which when lit are gently blown
out and allowed to smolder in ashtrays.
2. Colors of Incenses
a. The color is provided by the base and
corresponds to the color assigned to the planets in the Table
of Correspondences.
(1) Of course, it is up to you, after experimentation,
to determine if the assigned colors work for you.
3. Bases and Recipes for each type of incense
a. Most bases are made from the sawdust,
or raspings, of wood.
(1) Ground cascarilla bark is used in most
of the finer incenses because it gives off a weak musk smell
when burned.
(a) It would not be unusual to find that
the wood base of an incense was made from raspings of the
tree that is sacred to the Intelligence of the planet for
which the incense is prepared.
b. The basic recipe for a wood base is
as follows.
(1) 50% of the total volume of the incense
in the form of raspings.
(a) Normally one ounce mixed with 2 ounces
of powdered Benzoin and one ounce of Storax.
(2) 50% of the total volume of the incense
in the form of finely ground spices, herbs, or coarsely ground
resins.
(a) Normally about one ounce.
c. Before mixing the base you would want
to dye the raspings in a pot of clothing dye and allow them
to dry fully in the sun.
(1) As the raspings start to dry you should
spread them out on a drying board to ensure that they do not
dry in clumps.
(a) Being careful to wear rubber gloves
when you are handling the raspings during the dying process,
and afterwards when you are spreading them out to dry, this
will keep you from dying your hands as well.
d. The base for making cones is as follows.
6 oz finely powdered charcoal
1 oz powdered Benzoin
1/2 oz Saltpeter
1/4 oz Tolu
1/4 oz of raspings.
Enough mucilage of tragacanth or gum arabic
to make a stiff paste.
(1) The solid ingredients are ground to
a fine powder and mixed into the tragacanth.
(a) Gum tragacanth and gum arabic or acacia
gum are the two principle glues used to hold powdered ingredients
together.
(b) Mucilage of tragacanth is prepared
by placing a tablespoon of powdered tragacanth into a container
with 10 oz of water. If necessary, correct the consistency
- you want a heavy paste that can be molded with your hands.
(c) Keep the mucilage well covered, so
that it will remain soft.
(d) If the tragacanth or gum of arabic
pastes become hard before you have a change to mold them they
can be softened in a double boiler with gentle heat and constant
stirring.
(2) When the oils and other powdered ingredients
are added the mixture should form a manageable dough.
(a) After the addition of the scented oils,
the mixture is divided and rolled into small cones.
(3) A cone shaped mold is handy to use
as it is hard to get the exact shape just with your fingers
- but not impossible.
(a) You have to work quite fast and keep
the unused portion in a bowl covered with a damp cloth.
(b) Set these little shapes aside to dry
- which takes a day - and they are ready to ignite.
e. Joss sticks are difficult to make without
a special press.
(1) You can usually obtain one in areas
where there is a large oriental population.
(2) The idea is to make coils from the
paste mixture prepared in the recipe for cones.
(a) You might roll slim snakes of the paste,
place them on waxed paper and stick tiny twigs into one end
so they will stand in an incense holder.
(b) You might also try rolling paste around
a thick broom straw.
f. Sweet Ribbons are made with inch wide
woven cotton ribbons like the ones used in upholstery repair.
(1) To ensure an even and slow burn in
the ribbons, you should prepare a solution of 12 ozs of boiling
water and 1 oz of saltpeter.
(a) Pull the ribbons through the solution
until they are thoroughly saturated and set them aside in
the sun to dry.
(b) Saltpeter (sodium nitrate) is obtainable
from your pharmacist.
(2) After the ribbon is dried, it is pulled
through a shallow tray of the perfume or oil you are using
and dried again.
(a) To use, you cut off a length of ribbon
and light one end.
(b) Blow out the fire and set the smoldering
ribbon in an ashtray.
g. Armenian Incense Papers are prepared
by cutting a large sheet of white blotting paper into about
eight pieces.
(1) Pull each paper through the saltpeter
solution prepared for the Sweet Ribbons, until each piece
is thoroughly saturated. Hang the strips to dry.
(a) Macerate or soak a crushed vanilla
bean in 8 ozs of vodka for a week, filter the solids. out.
(b) Add a few drops, to preference, of
your favorite essence oils to the alcohol and mix this with
1 1/2 ozs of powdered benzoin and 1 oz of crushed sandalwood.
(c) Again, draw the papers through the
resulting liquid and hang them to dry.
(2) When dry, cut them into inch wide strips
and store them in waxed paper or foil.
(a) To perfume a room light the corner
of one of the papers and immediately blow it out.
(b) It should smolder and give off it's
scent.
(c) Leave the smoldering paper in an ashtray,
until it has burned itself out.
4. Most incenses will burn by themselves,
but oils and resinous incenses, like Frankincense and Myrrh,
as well as most powdered incenses, require a glowing charcoal
to provide heat for ignition.
a. Most religious supply stores sell self-igniting
charcoal in little round cakes which can be used whole or
broken into smaller pieces.
(1) If you have a mind to, you can make
your own charcoal and then treat it so that it will catch
fire easily.
(2) To make your own charcoal, build a
small fire, in a container which is airtight when it is closed,
using wood chips purchased at the supermarket or pieces of
bark from a nursery.
(a) Once the wood is glowing red-hot, close
the lid, and let the fire smother.
(b) After the coals have cooled, from several
hours to a few days, remove them and grind them up into a
fine powder using the grating side of a kitchen grater.
(3) To treat your charcoal for easy lighting
and shaping into usable shapes you will need to prepare a
solution of 30 ozs of water in which 1/2 oz of saltpeter has
been dissolved.
(a) Add 30 ozs of the ground up charcoal
to the previous solution and add just enough gum tragacanth
or gum arabic to make a heavy paste.
(b) Form the paste into small squares or
circles and make an indentation in the top of them with your
thumb. This will form a cup to hold a pinch of incense.
(4) To light your charcoal, hold a flame
to the corner or edge of your square or circle.
(a) Lay the charcoal in an incense burner,
which is filled at least 1/3 full with sand or ashes to prevent
burning the table that it sits on.
(b) Wait until all the charcoal is glowing
and then place a pinch of powdered incense or a small piece
of resin on the coal.
(c) Be careful not to smother it with too
much incense.
C.
Formularies for the Planetary Incenses
1. Moon Incense
a. Wood base is made of Willow raspings,
colored white or silver for use on the new moon, red or green
on the full moon and black on the dark or waning moon.
(1) Mix equal parts of wormwood and camphor
raspings to the wood base.
(a) Form into whichever form of incense
you prefer. Don't forget you can shape it into the symbols
that hold special meaning to you. Example: making small crescent
moons using the recipe for cones would be appropriate.
2. Sun Incense
a. Wood base is made of acacia, bay laurel,
ash, birch or broom raspings and colored gold or yellow.
(1) Mix equal parts of coarsely ground
Frankincense and Myrrh.
(a) It is best to form these into cones
so that they burn more evenly.
3. Mercury Incense
a. Wood base is made of hazel, ash, or
almond raspings and colored violet.
(1) Mix equal parts of gum mastic and cinnamon.
(a) Powder or cones will work just as well.
4. Venus Incense
a. Wood base is made of apple or quince
raspings and colored green, indigo, or rose red.
(1) Mixing equal parts of finely ground
lavender, chamomile, cinnamon, orris root, and rose petals.
add musk and patchouli oil to your liking. Best prepared as
a powdered incense.
5. Mars Incense
a. Wood base is made of holly or kerm-oak
raspings and colored blood red.
(1) Mix 4 parts coarse ground Dragons Blood
resin with 4 parts ground Rue, 1 part Ginger, 1 part coarse
ground peppercorns, and a pinch of sulfur.
(a) Best prepared as a powdered incense.
6. Jupiter Incense
a. Wood base is made of oak, olive, or
terebinth raspings and colored a deep, or royal blue.
(1) Mix equal parts of finely ground anise, mint, hyssop,
chervil, liverwort, and juniper.
(a) Makes an excellent powdered incense.
7. Saturn Incense
a. Wood base is made of alder or pomegranite
raspings and colored black or blue.
(1) Mix 4 parts of coarse ground myrrh,
1 part elderberry, 1 part cypress, 1 part yew, and 1 part
patchouli raspings.
(a) Burns best as a powder, if it is finely
mixed. Cones are better if you cannot mix them well enough.
D. Using
Spices as Incense
1. Once it was very common to use spices
to perfume a room or house.
a. Popular spices such as cinnamon, allspice,
ginger, cloves, or rosemary leave a room smelling very pleasant.
(1) Heat up about 1/4 of a teaspoonful
of a good vegetable cooking oil and stir in your spices.
(a) As soon as the mixture starts to smoke,
remove it from the heat and walk about the room with the pan
of hot spices.
E. Preparation
of Essence Oils
1. Methods of Extraction
a. The three most used methods of extracting
essence oils from plants are: distillation, enfleurage and
maceration.
b. Distillation is the most common method
of extraction and works well on leaves, bark, roots, seeds,
and tough flowers such as roses and lavender. This method
is not, however, suitable for the more delicate flowers.
(1) The basic apparatus for distillation
consists of a still or retort, in which the materials are
heated over a boiling liquid, a condenser to cool and condense
the resulting vapor carrying the oils, and a receiver to collect
the distilled liquid.
(a) Gather and cut up about 60-80 grams
of plant material as best you can and place it in the retort,
where the contents are steamed by boiling water.
(b) As the steam passes over the plant
material it causes the moisture in the plants to escape, carrying
the essential oils along with it.
(c) The vapor enters into the condenser
where it cools and condenses into tiny droplets which slide
down the collector into a vial.
(d) Generally, the first ounce is pure
oil and the rest is suitable for toilet water.
c. Enfluerage is an extraction which uses
no heat and is best applied to the removal of essence oils
from delicate flowers like violets, lily of the valley, and
mignonette.
(1) Enfluerage is based on the principle
that essential oils are absorbed by other fats and oils.
(a) Shallow trays are greased on both sides
with purifies fat and fresh blossoms are spread thickly between
them.
(b) Every few days the spent flowers are
removed and replaced with fresh ones until, in about 4 weeks,
the fat is saturated with the flower oil. You now have Pomade.
(2) The oil is then extracted from the
fat by mixing it with unscented vodka, surgical alcohol or
brandy.
(a) The oil will dissolve in the alcohol
and can be removed by placing the container of fat, essence
oil and alcohol in a cold water bath.
(b) This is prepared by taking a container
full of ice water, which is larger than you oil container,
and placing the oil container in it.
(c) The fat will congeal and the alcohol,
with the essence oil, can be poured into a suitable container.
(3) Sometimes cloths soaked in olive oil
are used instead of trays, the blossoms being replaced as
necessary until the olive oil is fully charged with the perfume.
(a) Then the oil is squeezed from the cloths
and the essential oils separated with alcohol as in the earlier
procedure.
d. Maceration is a similar and quicker
method of extraction used for less fragile flowers.
(1) Successive batches of fresh flowers
are left to soak in warm fat for several days, until the fat
is strongly impregnated.
(a) As before, the oils are washed out
of the fat by the alcohol.
2. Mixing Essence Oils
a. When mixing essence oils for use as
scents on the body, you will want to dilute the pure essence
oil with 50% olive oil or light mineral oil.
(1) This extends your essence oils and
prevents the body oil from being too overpowering.
(a) When applying body oils you should
place a small drop over those places where the blood vessels
run close to the surface of the skin so that as your blood
runs hot the scent radiates from you.
b. In working specific spells, it might
be necessary to use five or more oils to cover all the bases.
F. Formula
for an Annointing Oil
1. This oil is generally utilized to bless
candles before they are used in a ceremony, and is said to
magnetize the candles or to give them more occult strength.
b. This oil can also be used to wipe down
an altar or a worship room.
(1) Determine the total volume of oil you
wish to make, mix 50% of the total in a good quality olive
oil or light mineral oil with a 50% blend of the following
oils:
(a) Patchouli Oil
(b) Cinnamon oil
(c) Verbena oil
(2) Try to obtain as pure an oil as possible
for each ingredient.
(a) Mix the patchouli, cinnamon, and verbena
in equal amounts, so that the total is 50% of the total volume.
G.
A Word of Caution
1. Some people have allergic reactions
to essence oils.
a. Never use oils or blends of oils
in large amounts until you have tried a small amount on your
skin to be sure you are not allergic to them.
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